Pre-theatre dinner is a classic meal at star city's newest restaurant.
Former Hugo's Lounge chef John Lanzafame has recently opened an eponymous restaurant in a shrewd spot opposite the Lyric Theatre at Star City. The main clientele are pre-show diners, and Lanzafame has worked hard to balance the need for a super fast turnaround with taking pride in classic Italian cooking.
But it would be a shame if Lanzafame was dismissed as only a pre-theatre eatery, as a great deal of attention and care has gone into making the menu for what is essentially a pizza and pasta joint imaginative, while keeping a classic sensibility. Lanzafame says he has created a trattoria with food that takes the classic Italian peasant food one step further.
For what Lanzafame saves on low fuss service (we had to pour our own water for example), he makes up with culinary experience.
The pasta menu includes innovative dishes such as macaroni with Manchego cheese and a rich napolitana sauce. There's...
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tagliatelle with confit duck, summer truffles and carrot butter and prawn risotto with semi-dried tomato and fried blue mascarpone.
Only two principali plates are currently offered: 900g dry, aged rib on the bone with potato gratin and fresh tarragon, served for two, and a dory piccatta with carponata, salt cod brandade, rocket salad and chips.
The pappardelle with white rabbit with olives tempts, but it is the cauliflower risotto with roasted zucchini, basil and a hint of lemon that I order. It's light and flavoursome, and I finish every last bit. An entree of the classic fresh tomato, basil and buffalo mozzarella makes a light but sublime main.
Chocolate pizza with banana and vanilla ice-cream makes an entertaining dish, but throws my carb intake off the scale. The classic tiramisu however, makes for a fine Italian finish.
Where: Lanzafame, opposite the Lyric Theatre, Star City Casino, 80 Pyrmont Street, Pyrmont
Phone: 9571 1122
We ate: Tomato and mozzarella salad, $16;cauliflower risotto, $24; chocolate pizza, $12; tiramisu, $12.
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