Convicts may have built the venue but this restaurant is no old age swindler.
Cafe by day, cool bistro by night, Forbes and Burton is a slice of urban sophistication in Darlinghurst. Set on the corner opposite the old jail (now the much more decorous National Art School), the room has the same iconic convict-hewn sandstone.
You can still see the chipmarks of the poor blighters' chisels. Bless their souls.Thankfully we don't have to work so hard for our dinner. We grab a table in the elegantly buzzing atmosphere. The clientele is fashionably urbane - it's a more stylish affair at night.
We start with entrees of silky smooth chicken liver parfait with sticky sweet whole grape chutney and scorched sourdough toast. Scallops with black olive and orange was a surprisingly complementary combination.I thought the olives would overpower the seafood but it enhanced their almost nutty flavour. Orange reflected their sweetness.
For mains, I opt for a delicate barramundi fillet set in...
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seafood broth with a fresh warm salad of wilted spinach and asparagus with mussels and scallops. Soft roasted cherry tomatoes added a splash of colour to this cheery dish.
My date chose the herb-crusted braised veal shin with a pumpkin and parmesan risotto. The richness of the tender meat matched well with the caramelised punch of the rich rice dish. Savoy cabbage is always an underrated dish in my book and with mustard grains it makes a splendid wintery side dish to go with roasted kipfler potatoes.
To finish we share a decadent chocolate cherry dacquoise: a nutty meringue-style dessert made of baked layers. The chocolate is sweet rather than sinful, made more indulgent with syrupy black cherries.
Where: Forbes and Burton, 252 Forbes Street, Darlinghurst
Phone: 9356 8788
We ate: Chicken liver parfait, $19; scallops with black olives, $18; barramundi with shellfish and asparagus, $33; chocolate cherry dacquoise, $15
Story: Hannah Rand
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