
Where: Tomatillo, 40B Darlinghurst Road, Kings Cross
Phone: 9326 0900
Authentic Mexican makes for a fast food fiesta at this cross newcomer...
Mexican food is to Americans what Thai is to Australians: relatively healthy and relied upon for a can't-be-bothered-to-cook takeaway.
Hailing from Washington, DC, owner Bill Komoroski (along with chef George Grau) has taken memories from trips to Mexico and brought south-of-the-border tastes to Kings Cross. This brightly coloured diner is a fun place to drop into after work or before a night out.
All the food is made from scratch and as you enter the little tavern you'll see Bill working over his stainless steel tortilla maker. Order your quesadillas, burritos, tacos, nachos and salads at the counter and take a seat on one of the rustic wooden tables. Ironically, the only produce Bill has to ship in is the tomatillos (the restaurant's name-sakes) - tiny green tomatos with an acidy tang.
Flour tortillas, cheese, meat, guacamole, sour cream and salad are combined in a multitude of ways to create...
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traditional Mexican food. The cuisine typically relies on three elements to put a party on the plate: salt, limes and chilli. Bill has taken the chilli and made it into something special with his 'serratillo' and 'must-have-mango' sauces. Slices of lime adorn every serving. For your salt fix, knock back a few of Bill's margaritas made fresh from tequila, lime juice and triple sec.
The tacos take a bit of practice to eat - watch out for salsa running down your arm as you eat these moreish parcels. The quesadilla is a large flour tortilla stuffed with meat, cheese, grilled capsicum, onion, sour cream and salsa. Ribs are a speciality at Tomatillo. Slow cooked for nine hours, pork is rubbed with herbs and spices before being grilled with a smoky, fiery hot chipotle sauce. The nachos came with homemade tortilla chips and are far from the sloppy mess you'll be served elsewhere.
Mexican food may not have the creativity of French or the variety of Asian cuisine but, as with most things in Central America, the food is an example of how to turn the humble into something entertaining. Tomatillo pulls off the American taco joint with authenticity.
Still hungry? Go to Eat and Drink for more restaurant reviews
Story: Hannah Rand
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