
Where: Emmilou, 413 Bourke St, Surry Hills
Phone: 9360 6991
The perfect solution to beat those late night hunger pangs...
Sydney has a dearth of decent places to eat at 12.45am. Emmilou is trendy space, with a world class chef who stays in his kitchen until 1am most nights. Chris Cranswick-Smith's (formerly of Aria; the Grand National; and est.) philosophy is strength in simplicity - albeit sophisticated simplicity in an achingly hip atmosphere.
An entree of silky-soft slices of cured wild boar with spiced beetroot and pickled shimeji mushrooms was surprisingly refreshing. The Sichuan spiced duck confit with seared scallops and a spicy eggplant pickles was equally entertaining yet unobtrusive, despite the complexity of the flavours.
The spiced vongole was a favourite. The plate stacked with baby clams in a piccante tomato sauce with strips of sweet ham. Each was a slurp of the Mediterranean sea, served with a chunk of homemade bread.
Meanwhile the roast harpuka with crushed potatoes with a horseradish and smoked salmon and...
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Avruga caviar veloute was an intricate dish but the lightness of the salmon and the chives meant the fish wasn't overpowering.
Chris's speciality is a spiced gingerbread served with glazed walnuts and a rich, strong Turkish coffee ice-cream, but my choice of the poached pear with an exceptional brown bread ice-cream and raisins served with a bread foam was an indulgent end to our meal.
We also tried the sandwich of rich chocolate and tart yoghurt sorbets.
Drop in for a cocktail and oyster or go for the a la carte. After all if the chef is there after midnight, you might as well use him.
Still hungry? Go to Eat and Drink for more restaurant reviews
Story: Lucy Lang
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